The wind carries whispers across Zanskar, the southwestern region of the Indian union territory of Ladakh. Not the usual mountain winds, but a different kind—a quiet lament.
“I remember the first time I trekked those ochre landscapes – the sheer, untouched beauty, the warmth of the villagers who welcomed me into their homes. Now, that quiet is broken by the rumble of bulldozers carving roads that seem to bypass the very heart of the place. It’s a strange feeling, watching a place you love change so rapidly,” says Gaurav Pawar, Managing Partner of HECO.
And it got us thinking: Can tourism be a force for good, or is it destined to erode the very things we seek?
The whispers of change: Zanskar’s crossroads
Zanskar is marked by stark, beautiful landscapes, where life moves to the rhythm of yak bells and glacial streams. For centuries, the villagers have lived in harmony with this harsh environment, their lives woven into the fabric of the mountains. But then came the roads, promising progress, but delivering something else entirely. Tourists, who used to trek for days and provide income to villagers by staying in the homestays, now zoom past in jeeps, heading straight for the crowded hotspots of Ladakh.
In response, the Photoksar Youth Committee was formed to revive cultural traditions and raise awareness about the history and geography of the region around Photoksar, a remote village in the Leh district of Ladakh situated in the Zanskar range. Tashi Dolma, a member of the committee, says, “We are not against visitors, but we want them to respect our land and our ways.” It’s a simple request, but it speaks volumes. Many young people, drawn to the city lights of Leh, end up leaving behind their ancestral lands.
Photoksar’s awakening: A community-driven revolution
But here’s the thing – Zanskar is fighting back. In Photoksar, Himalayan Ecotourism (HECO, along with a group of villagers, formed the Photoksar Tourism Development Committee (PTDC). PTDC is a symbol of something powerful: community ownership. HECO is empowering the villagers to take the lead. Their four-step process—Association, Learning, Implementation, Creativity—is about blending traditional knowledge with natural resources to build sustainable tourism.
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The Tso Marpo Trek: A journey of cultural immersion
What was once a simple trail, the Tso Marpo Trek has become a meaningful journey rooted in community and culture. Trekkers are required to hire local guides, stay in homestays, and eat local food. Every step benefits the community. At the base camp, HECO is developing a nomadic yak wool camp, an innovative initiative that showcases sustainable design and celebrates traditional livelihoods. Made from local materials, powered by solar, and staffed by local villagers. It’s a sustainable innovation that respects the environment and the nomadic lifestyle. The procurement of yak wool will benefit the Changpa community, Tibetan pastoralists primarily based in the Changtang region of Ladakh, and provide a broader platform to showcase their handloom expertise to the world. The camp aims to attract responsible travellers who will directly contribute to increased income for villagers through visiting the homestays, eating at the local dhabas, and using local taxis.
HECO has observed that Ladakhi communities have long maintained a deep understanding of their environment’s delicate balance. Their traditional irrigation systems and grazing practices are rooted in working with the land, not against it. This project builds on that knowledge, ensuring tourism supports and strengthens this harmony rather than disrupting it.
Beyond economics: Protecting heritage and inspiring change
This isn’t just about money; it’s about preserving culture. Through this new approach, when travellers intentionally connect with Ladakhi culture—whether by participating in local rituals, learning traditional crafts, listening to stories and histories, or simply showing genuine respect for local customs—it creates deeper understanding and mutual appreciation. This is also reflected in the younger generation, who are beginning to see themselves as guardians of their heritage. And the impact is spreading—neighbouring villages like Lingshed are taking note and realising they can do the same.
A legacy of harmony: Zanskar’s blueprint for the future
As the sun sets over Zanskar, casting long shadows across the valleys, Himalayan Ecotourism reflects on the people behind the work. These villagers are not passive in the face of change, they are shaping their own future. Their efforts show that tourism can be a tool for empowerment. This is more than a Zanskar story; it’s a practical model for how travel can support, rather than harm, the places we visit.
Learn more about the project in Photoksar and how community-led projects are creating a positive impact on fragile ecosystems here.